Whole House Water Filter | Three Stage Water Filter System | Main Line Water Filter

It sits on the single pipe that brings water into your home and filters that water before it splits out to the taps. That means the kitchen, bathroom, laundry and outside taps all draw from the same filtered supply. It is a different job from a small under-sink unit, which only treats one outlet.

The first stage is a polypropylene sediment filter rated to 5 microns. The second and third stages are carbon block cartridges made from coconut shell carbon. Water passes through them in order, so the sediment stage protects the carbon stages from clogging early.

It is designed to reduce chlorine taste and odour and to reduce sediment in drinkable mains water. We stick to what the maker states and do not claim anything beyond that. If you need something specific removed, have your water tested and check the result against the cartridge specifications.

No. This is a sediment and carbon block system, not a reverse osmosis unit, so it is not designed to reduce TDS. The maker's description notes a maximum supported TDS of 300 ppm for the system itself. If TDS reduction is your goal, a different type of system is the right tool.

Each cartridge is roughly 51 cm tall and 11.4 cm in diameter, the size often called a 20 inch big blue format. That larger size is what keeps the flow rate up. It also means replacements are widely available in that standard shape.

The system is rated to a maximum of about 57 litres per minute, which is 15 gallons per minute. In practice your real flow depends on your incoming mains pressure and your pipe sizes. The large cartridges are chosen to keep the pressure drop modest compared with a small cartridge.

The quoted capacity is about 379,000 litres, which is 100,000 gallons, and the filter life cycle is listed as one year. Most households hit the twelve month mark first. Water with a lot of grit may clog the sediment stage sooner.

No. It is tankless and runs on your existing water pressure, so no electricity is involved. That also means it keeps working during a power cut, as long as your water supply is still running.

The maker rates it as DIY, but because it cuts into your mains plumbing we strongly recommend a licensed plumber. A plumber will fit isolation valves, mount it securely and make sure every joint is sealed and supported. In many regions, work on the main line legally has to be done by a licensed trade.

Ask for shut-off valves on both the inlet and outlet, so you can isolate the unit for cartridge changes without shutting the whole house down. A pressure gauge is a useful extra, since a rising pressure drop is the clearest sign the sediment cartridge is loading up. Leave clearance below the housings.

The unit itself is 61.6 cm wide, 19.7 cm deep and 70.5 cm tall. Allow extra space underneath, roughly the height of a cartridge, so the housings can drop clear when you unscrew them. A bit of room on either side makes using the wrench much easier.

Wherever the main line enters, which is often a garage, basement, utility room or an outdoor plumbing box. It needs to be somewhere that never freezes, somewhere you can reach comfortably, and ideally somewhere a small drip will not cause damage. Your plumber will advise on the best spot.

Only in a sheltered position that stays within the operating range of about 4 °C to 38 °C. Direct sun degrades plastic housings over time and freezing can crack them. If outdoors is the only option, a weatherproof enclosure is sensible.

It is intended for use with drinkable mains (town) water. It is not designed as a treatment system for untreated rainwater, bore water or any supply of unknown quality. If your supply is not town water, get professional advice before fitting anything.

The system weighs 20.41 kg dry. Once the housings are full of water it is noticeably heavier, which is why it needs to be mounted to a solid wall or frame rather than hung from the pipework. Ask your plumber to use a proper bracket.

Any filter adds some resistance, but the large cartridge format is specifically chosen to keep that small. You are most likely to notice a drop when the sediment cartridge nears the end of its life. Changing it usually restores the flow.

About 4 °C to 38 °C, which is 40 °F to 100 °F. Keep the unit out of freezing areas, since frozen water inside a housing can crack it. Hot water lines are not suitable for this type of filter.

No. A whole house water filter of this type belongs on the cold main before the water heater. Fitting it ahead of the heater means the hot supply is filtered too, since the heater draws from the same treated line.

One whole house filtration system, three filters and one wrench, according to the maker's description. Fittings, valves and pipework specific to your home are not included. Your plumber will supply those to suit your setup.

Shut off the inlet and outlet valves, release the pressure, then use the supplied wrench to unscrew each housing. Lift out the old cartridge, rinse the housing with clean water, seat the new cartridge and check the O-ring is clean and properly in its groove before refitting. Open the valves slowly and run a tap to flush air through.

Sediment first, in the housing closest to the incoming water, then the two carbon block cartridges in sequence. The housings are usually marked for flow direction. If you are unsure, follow the arrows on the manifold rather than guessing.

Go by the maker's schedule as the baseline, which is one year. Change sooner if flow drops noticeably, if pressure falls off at the taps, or if the chlorine taste starts coming back. Writing the date on the housing with a marker saves a lot of guesswork.

The 51 cm by 11.4 cm format is a common standard, so sediment and carbon block replacement filter cartridges in that size are widely sold. Match the micron rating and the cartridge type rather than only the physical size. Keeping a spare sediment cartridge on hand is a good habit.

No. It is a sediment and carbon filtration system and nothing in it is designed to address hardness. Softening is a completely separate type of equipment. If hardness is your concern, speak to a plumber about the right approach for your area.

The carbon block stages are designed to reduce chlorine taste and odour, so many people find the water tastes less of the pool smell that chlorinated mains can have. Results vary by region and by how much chlorine your supply carries. Nothing else about the water is being altered.

Yes. After installation, run a cold tap for several minutes to flush out carbon fines and any air in the housings. The water may look grey or cloudy at first, which is normal with new carbon. Do the same after every cartridge change.

For a plumber with clear access to the main line, it is usually a short job, often an hour or two. Awkward access, old pipework or adding valves will add time. Get a quote that includes the fittings as well as the labour.

It is permanently plumbed in, so you would need your landlord's agreement and a plumber to fit it. For renters, a point of use filter is usually a simpler path. For owners, a main line water filter is the more thorough option because it covers every outlet.

It can, for someone who owns their home and has mentioned the taste or the grit in their water. It is a practical gift rather than a surprise one, since the recipient will need a plumber to fit it. Checking they have a suitable spot first is worthwhile.

If the unit does not suit your plumbing or your situation, contact us before anything is installed and we will walk you through your options under our returns policy. Returns are far simpler while the system is unused and still in its packaging. Measuring the space and checking access with a plumber beforehand is the easiest way to avoid the issue.